The principles of flying are quite simple if understood. The Wright brothers accomplished this in their early models, and were able to slowly glide down the hills, even though it was just for a short distance of about a half-mile from the start point. They went on to innovate and create new devices and thus created new machines with better wings and good angles in order to enable them to fly a little longer. Thus encouraged, they went on further and added newer devices to their machine and tilted the wings or planes to different angles to achieve better results.
After the greatest and initial pioneers, the Wright brothers, successful attempt in flying an aircraft, interests in aviation grew tremendously and the aviation industry has grown considerably and huge potentials achieved through the times. So, seeing the rampant growth in the aviation industry in terms of its benefits, usage and advantages, it has become an important aspect of everyday civilian life and also it has become an inherent and important part of the military sector.
Soon after the arrival of the airplane, the model airplanes became a hobby for both young and old alike. The model airplanes of yesteryears could really fly. They did not contain anything as complicated as a motor, but used basic aeronautic principles to fly short distances and short heights.
Today, the numbers of avid aircraft model enthusiasts have grown. There are many different types of models to choose from. The interest in aviation spread rapidly and many models are made. Model airplane enthusiasts can be dated back to the early 1900s'. Most of the models then used were rubber powered, twining with double stick fuselages were used. But even in the early days of model flying, small petrol and compressed air engines were used. The materials used in model constructions were birch strips, veneer, spruce, piano wire, bamboo etc.
When embarking on a flight plan for a model aircraft the things to be considered are as follows:
• The aerodynamic principles are what really make it fly.
• The model airplane’s make and model.
• For good flying, the type of wings, fuselage, the stabilizers, propellers, engines, landing gears etc.
• The wings are why the airplane can stay in the air for a long time. With proper design of the airplane, dimensions, weight considerations and aerodynamic design characteristics it will fly successfully. But even though it has a good design, weight and balance plays a major role and with regards to balancing, a well-balanced airplane is controllable during flight.
• Activate the fulcrum or center of gravity located at the wing chord. Balance it by placing fingers on both sides of the wing, and then relocate the receiver, batteries and servos until the airplane is balanced.
• An airplane relies on the airfoil properties of its wing to create lift when moving forward. Thrust is required to move the airplane through the air. When lift and thrust are greater than gravity and drag the airplane will fly.
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
Uses Of Laminating Films In Model Aircrafts
Laminating film is used to strengthen and seal different parts of a model aircraft like a vertical stabilizer and rudder. This is cost effective and less expensive as compared to colored plastic films. In fact, the laminating film has many more benefits than the colored plastic films, which would include good tensile strength as compared to the plastic films.
There are many new ways and possibilities with laminating films, as the laminating film is quite cheap as compared to regular model aircraft covering films. To laminate the aircraft surface, the required materials would be:
• Laminating film ranges anywhere between 40 microns for smaller surfaces to 80 microns for larger aircraft surfaces.
• Household iron.
• Heat gun.
• Sheet of glass 6 mm or thicker.
• Sharp knife.
• Clear tape.
The steps involved in the usage of laminating films are as follows:
Preparing The Raw Surface - The smoother the raw balsa model flying surface, the stronger the bond with the film.
Applying Hinge Bevel: If the laminating film is used as a hinge, then the parts will have to be fixed at an angle of about 45 degrees. And the tools used for this are either a razor plane or a sanding bar.
Tack Down Laminating Film: Using the iron, which is in turn set to cotton/linen, the excess film is sealed around the surface and helps to pull.
Creating An Exhaust Hole In The Film - Due to the heat from the iron and the decreasing film, the trapped air will prevent the film from effortlessly sticking to the surfaces. Therefore, a nick in the shape of ‘L’ needs to be cut to facilitate the air to escape.
Tack The Film Around The Perimeter Of The Surfaces - Before the process of final bonding of the film to the surfaces, the iron should be run around the edge of the perimeter of the surface. This helps in pulling the film across the surface quite tightly.
Bonding The Laminating Film To The Balsa Surface - Using a house iron or a heat gun, the laminating film should be used to cover the surface and instantly rub with a soft cloth in order to increase the bond.
Cut Out The Balsa Surface - A sharp knife should be used to cut out the laminating film from the balsa surface. It should be cut widely so that a small amount of not bonded laminating film would go around the edges and overlap.
Turn Over Surface And Repeat - The same process detailed above is to be repeated on the other side of the surface too.
Hinging The Tail - The excess laminating film should be removed after both the sides have been laminated. Once this excess has been cut away, one maybe able to move away from the hinged surfaces. For very light load cases, one-side hinging is quite sufficient. But it’s best to double-side the hinges.
There are many new ways and possibilities with laminating films, as the laminating film is quite cheap as compared to regular model aircraft covering films. To laminate the aircraft surface, the required materials would be:
• Laminating film ranges anywhere between 40 microns for smaller surfaces to 80 microns for larger aircraft surfaces.
• Household iron.
• Heat gun.
• Sheet of glass 6 mm or thicker.
• Sharp knife.
• Clear tape.
The steps involved in the usage of laminating films are as follows:
Preparing The Raw Surface - The smoother the raw balsa model flying surface, the stronger the bond with the film.
Applying Hinge Bevel: If the laminating film is used as a hinge, then the parts will have to be fixed at an angle of about 45 degrees. And the tools used for this are either a razor plane or a sanding bar.
Tack Down Laminating Film: Using the iron, which is in turn set to cotton/linen, the excess film is sealed around the surface and helps to pull.
Creating An Exhaust Hole In The Film - Due to the heat from the iron and the decreasing film, the trapped air will prevent the film from effortlessly sticking to the surfaces. Therefore, a nick in the shape of ‘L’ needs to be cut to facilitate the air to escape.
Tack The Film Around The Perimeter Of The Surfaces - Before the process of final bonding of the film to the surfaces, the iron should be run around the edge of the perimeter of the surface. This helps in pulling the film across the surface quite tightly.
Bonding The Laminating Film To The Balsa Surface - Using a house iron or a heat gun, the laminating film should be used to cover the surface and instantly rub with a soft cloth in order to increase the bond.
Cut Out The Balsa Surface - A sharp knife should be used to cut out the laminating film from the balsa surface. It should be cut widely so that a small amount of not bonded laminating film would go around the edges and overlap.
Turn Over Surface And Repeat - The same process detailed above is to be repeated on the other side of the surface too.
Hinging The Tail - The excess laminating film should be removed after both the sides have been laminated. Once this excess has been cut away, one maybe able to move away from the hinged surfaces. For very light load cases, one-side hinging is quite sufficient. But it’s best to double-side the hinges.
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
Model Aircrafts - A Close Encounter
‘Model aircrafts’ can be distinguished either as flying or non-flying models of existing or make-believe aircrafts. They are also often scaled down forms of full sized planes, and the materials used are balsa wood, foam and fiberglass. In model aircraft we can choose from a vast array of designs ranging from simple gliders, to highly accurate scale models, some of which are huge.
Models may be built either as static non-flying models, or as flying models also called aero-modeling. Building techniques for the two are quite different.
Static aircraft models are only models and are not designed to fly. These are built using plastic, wood, metal or paper.
Static aircraft models can be purchased as a pre-built, painted version, or models that would require to be built from scratch. There are also instant fit models available. The instant fit models are actually very popular these days because it is easy-to-assemble.
Some Flying models are smaller versions of a regular aircraft just like most static models are, and some are modeled like non-piloted airplanes. Some companies also cater to some unusual, custom-made models.
Flying models are built differently from those of static models. The patterns and ideas they follow are patterned on vintage aircraft structures. In some models, the frames are built with light wood and fabric. In some other models, the fabric is substituted with thin paper or plastic films.
Another form of model aircrafts that is really gaining popularity and momentum are the gliders. Gliders are aircrafts with no attached power. Model gliders are mostly hand-launched or catapult-launched. As gliders are un-powered, flight is dependent on the weather conditions and specifically the wind velocity. A hill or slope is ideal for launching a glider. There are also radio-controlled gliders that can remain airborne if the draft is good.
Another very popular model aircraft is the radio-controlled aircraft. Radio-controlled aircraft is a model aircraft that is controlled remotely via radio control. It is controlled with a hand-held transmitter and with a receiver that is inside the craft. The receiver controls and maneuvers the model aircraft. Radio-controlled aircrafts, as a hobby is growing rapidly. Today, in the market there are many models and brands to choose from. It is easy to maintain and is quite easy to assemble.
In fact, government, military and scientific organizations are using Radio-controlled aircrafts for their experiments, weather predictions, aerodynamic modeling and testing, and it is even used in spy planes.
The power sources for the model aircrafts are of different kinds. They could be either powered by an electric motor, radio-controlled, small piston engines, jet propulsion engines, turbine engines, compressed gas engines, pulsejets etc.
Model aircrafts, as a hobby is gaining popularity with a growing band of both young and old enthusiasts. Today, there is so much to choose from and the markets are flooded with many models.
Models may be built either as static non-flying models, or as flying models also called aero-modeling. Building techniques for the two are quite different.
Static aircraft models are only models and are not designed to fly. These are built using plastic, wood, metal or paper.
Static aircraft models can be purchased as a pre-built, painted version, or models that would require to be built from scratch. There are also instant fit models available. The instant fit models are actually very popular these days because it is easy-to-assemble.
Some Flying models are smaller versions of a regular aircraft just like most static models are, and some are modeled like non-piloted airplanes. Some companies also cater to some unusual, custom-made models.
Flying models are built differently from those of static models. The patterns and ideas they follow are patterned on vintage aircraft structures. In some models, the frames are built with light wood and fabric. In some other models, the fabric is substituted with thin paper or plastic films.
Another form of model aircrafts that is really gaining popularity and momentum are the gliders. Gliders are aircrafts with no attached power. Model gliders are mostly hand-launched or catapult-launched. As gliders are un-powered, flight is dependent on the weather conditions and specifically the wind velocity. A hill or slope is ideal for launching a glider. There are also radio-controlled gliders that can remain airborne if the draft is good.
Another very popular model aircraft is the radio-controlled aircraft. Radio-controlled aircraft is a model aircraft that is controlled remotely via radio control. It is controlled with a hand-held transmitter and with a receiver that is inside the craft. The receiver controls and maneuvers the model aircraft. Radio-controlled aircrafts, as a hobby is growing rapidly. Today, in the market there are many models and brands to choose from. It is easy to maintain and is quite easy to assemble.
In fact, government, military and scientific organizations are using Radio-controlled aircrafts for their experiments, weather predictions, aerodynamic modeling and testing, and it is even used in spy planes.
The power sources for the model aircrafts are of different kinds. They could be either powered by an electric motor, radio-controlled, small piston engines, jet propulsion engines, turbine engines, compressed gas engines, pulsejets etc.
Model aircrafts, as a hobby is gaining popularity with a growing band of both young and old enthusiasts. Today, there is so much to choose from and the markets are flooded with many models.
Monday, June 11, 2007
Weathering Model Aircraft – Some Useful Tips
Weathering is a terminology which is related to the process of making an aircraft model look like it’s been used for a while, aged or worn out. Typically, this usage has many different forms. Weathering would involve mud and dust accumulations on the aircraft, exhaust staining, paint fading due to the sun, metal rusting etc.
The whole process of weathering is actually quite artistic and not very monotonous or the usual. If one has an artistic bent of mind, weathering of aircraft models is a piece of cake. But weathering is not limited to the artistically-inclined; it can be carried out by anybody. It is just that one needs to muster or learn some simple techniques of the whole ‘weathering’ process. The learning of the Weathering processes is quite detailed and methodical and each one has a unique approach to adapt to or develop their own set of techniques/methods.
When we start on the weathering process, one needs to know, how many qualitative and quantitative changes with each aircraft model, can be incorporated. One has to be aware as to not to cross that fine line between accentuating and ruining the weathering process. But all this comes about only with experience and understanding of the technique and there are no user manuals, guidelines or set rules for this.
There is no one single technique or the magic catchword for the weathering process. It involves several steps or techniques depending of course on the make and type of model.
Some Of The Steps Would Be As Detailed Below:
1. Build the basic model according to the plan, user guideline. Apply stickers and leave off minor details, which can be added after the weathering process.
2. After the stickers are applied, the model should be given a glossy paint coat. In addition, thinner-based paints can be applied.
3. When using thinner-based enamel paint washes, dark colors like black, medium brown or dark tan is used.
4. After the enamel paint washes, the model is again flat coated with an airbrush. At this stage, all the differences and variations created by the earlier washes become very noticeable.
5. The next stage is where the shading is done and paint used is very thin. And even in this stage, dark colors are preferred. There are two steps to the same. The first being creating a replication of dirt and with the gradual air brushing, exhaust stains and powder burns are also created. The next step involves replicating the shadows. That is the inside corners of the model is darkened and thus giving the dramatic shadow effect.
6. The final step in the process is dry brushing the model to show some gradual aging and worn out effect. For this the colors that are used are usually black and silver.
For avid model aircraft collectors, weathering is a process that is gaining rapid momentum and is becoming an acceptable process and is seen as just creating a more attractive and sporty looking model. Weathering is more of an art form than a routine task in modeling. Mastering a few simple techniques can go a long way to improving the weathering looks on aircraft models. Once the technique is mastered, one can work on the artistic side of the matter.
The whole process of weathering is actually quite artistic and not very monotonous or the usual. If one has an artistic bent of mind, weathering of aircraft models is a piece of cake. But weathering is not limited to the artistically-inclined; it can be carried out by anybody. It is just that one needs to muster or learn some simple techniques of the whole ‘weathering’ process. The learning of the Weathering processes is quite detailed and methodical and each one has a unique approach to adapt to or develop their own set of techniques/methods.
When we start on the weathering process, one needs to know, how many qualitative and quantitative changes with each aircraft model, can be incorporated. One has to be aware as to not to cross that fine line between accentuating and ruining the weathering process. But all this comes about only with experience and understanding of the technique and there are no user manuals, guidelines or set rules for this.
There is no one single technique or the magic catchword for the weathering process. It involves several steps or techniques depending of course on the make and type of model.
Some Of The Steps Would Be As Detailed Below:
1. Build the basic model according to the plan, user guideline. Apply stickers and leave off minor details, which can be added after the weathering process.
2. After the stickers are applied, the model should be given a glossy paint coat. In addition, thinner-based paints can be applied.
3. When using thinner-based enamel paint washes, dark colors like black, medium brown or dark tan is used.
4. After the enamel paint washes, the model is again flat coated with an airbrush. At this stage, all the differences and variations created by the earlier washes become very noticeable.
5. The next stage is where the shading is done and paint used is very thin. And even in this stage, dark colors are preferred. There are two steps to the same. The first being creating a replication of dirt and with the gradual air brushing, exhaust stains and powder burns are also created. The next step involves replicating the shadows. That is the inside corners of the model is darkened and thus giving the dramatic shadow effect.
6. The final step in the process is dry brushing the model to show some gradual aging and worn out effect. For this the colors that are used are usually black and silver.
For avid model aircraft collectors, weathering is a process that is gaining rapid momentum and is becoming an acceptable process and is seen as just creating a more attractive and sporty looking model. Weathering is more of an art form than a routine task in modeling. Mastering a few simple techniques can go a long way to improving the weathering looks on aircraft models. Once the technique is mastered, one can work on the artistic side of the matter.
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